Overland Journey Through Cambodia

As the capital of Cambodia, Phnom Penh is definitely a witness of the country’s most direful period and recorder of its glory. Every nation’s history has its low ebb, but few regimes have been as brutally inhumane as the Khmer Rouge (1975-1979 AD). In pursuit of an agricultural utopia, all urban residents were forcibly moved to rural areas and most of them were perished from famine, disease, and force labor. Schools were shuttered and converted into detention centers, including the most notorious one we’ll visit today, the Tuol Sleng (S-21 Prison). In the prison reconstructed from classrooms, you can see walls hanging with harrowing pictures of victims and paintings of interrogation scenes, while in the courtyard, the original pull-up bar for students stands as gallows, making a complaint against the atrocity. 

About 20 minutes’ drive south of the prison lies Choeung Ek Killing Fields. Prisoners from S-21 were transported here by truck for mass executions. At the heart of the grounds, a towering memorial stupa houses over 8,000 human skulls behind glass panels. The pathway will lead you past mass graves to the Killing Tree dedicated to the innocent young lives lost during this dark era. You can leave some candies, dolls or other gadgets to solace their souls. Tracing these grounds alongside your guide’s narrative leaves you a lasting impression of profound remembrance.     

Emerging from the painful chapter, we’ll continue to step into the National Museum of Cambodia to explore the glory of Khmer civilization. Rather than curating in chronological order, it depicts history through the development of art. Through ancient Hindu deities, Buddhist statues, and exquisitely carved sandstone lintels, you can glimpse into the influence of Indianization on early Khmer culture and follow the epic rise and eventual twilight of the Angkor Empire (9th-15th century). 

Then, let’s head to the magnificent Royal Palace, the official residence of the monarchy. Beyond golden spires and meticulously maintained gardens, Silver Pagoda is its crown jewel. Stepping inside, you’ll be dazzled by its floor paved with over 5,000 sliver tiles. At the middle of the hall, you can see a Buddha statue constructed with pure gold and adorned with over 9,500 diamonds. After concluding today’s sightseeing, your guide and driver will escort you back to your hotel.

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch
Accommodation: Chaiya Palace Hotel (4 stars) or Hyatt Regency (5 stars), Phnom Penh

Bidding farewell to Phnom Penh after breakfast, your guide and driver will offer a 2.5-hour private car ride to Kampong Cham City, where we’ll have a brief visit to Wat Nokor Temple, a 12th-century monument originally built as a Hindu shrine dedicated to Vishnu. As Theravada Buddhism later became the state religion, a pagoda was constructed directly within the ancient sandstone walls during the 1930s. Therefore, ancient ruins and modern, colorful shrines stand side by side, where walls carved with Hindu mythologies and stupas telling Buddhist stories coexist in harmony.

We’ll then head to Mount Phnom Pros and Phnom Srei, also called Man Hill and Woman Hill. Legend has it that in ancient Cambodia, women were expected to propose marriage to men. To change this tradition, the women challenged the men to a mountain-building contest: whichever team built the lower mountain would forever have to propose. As night fell, the women lit a bonfire to trick the men into thinking the morning was coming, causing the men stop working. Undoubtedly, the women won the contest, which is why Phnom Srei stands higher and steeper than Phnom Pros. After conquering 308 steps, you’ll arrive at the summit of Phnom Srei, where you can gain a panoramic view of surrounding rice paddies and Mekong River.

After descending, drive 3 hours to Kamong Thom Province. Here, we’ll visit today’s final highlight - Phnom Santuk Mountain, a sacred pilgrimage site. A climb of over 800 steps winds up the hillside, taking about 25 minutes to the top. While arriving at the summit, an ancient temple and Buddha images carved directly to the natural rock face will reward you. Beyond monks, monkeys are residents as well. Please keep a close eye on your belongings since these bold creatures may view your snacks, drinks, and personal items as an open buffet.

After exploration, your guide and driver will escort you to your hotel in the city center of Kamong Thom for check-in. 

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch
Accommodation: Kampong Thom Palace Hotel (4 stars) or Sambor Village Hotel (4 stars), Kampong Thom

After breakfast, your guide and driver will offer you a 40-minite car ride to Sambor Prei Kuk Archaeological Site hidden in the forest. Spanning 25 square kilometers (6,177 acres), it was once the capital of the Chenla Kingdom (6th-9th century), the preclude to Cambodia’s most vibrant period – Angkor Dynasty (9th-15th century). In this UNESCO-listed site, you’ll find hundreds of brick-and-stone temples, among which the octagonal-shaped structures are unique to Southeast Asia. As you trace these moss-covered ruins, you’ll witness how roots of ancient trees grip the pre-Angkor brickwork.
► Tips:
1. The road to Sambor Prei is quite bumpy, so please take motion sickness tablets if you have a carsickness.
2. Since you need to hike 2 to 3 hours in the jungles, a pair of comfortable walking shoes is necessary.  

Afterward, we’ll embark on a 3-hour drive to Siem Reap. Upon arrival, your guide and driver will assist you with hotel check-in.

► Siem Reap Free-time Suggestions (at your own expense)
Once settling in, you can head to Wat Damnak Temple on your own in the afternoon, which takes less than 10 minutes by tuk-tuk from your hotel. Situated near the river, this historic sanctuary serves as a peaceful urban oasis. Wander along its lotus ponds shining the glow of fading twilight and your heart will calm down. As night falls, cross the footbridge to the Old Market on the opposite side of the river to hunt for local specialties such as fried rice noodles, fried rice, barbecue, and fruit shakes. After exploration, please return to your hotel independently.  

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch
Accommodation: Tara Angkor Hotel (4 stars), or FCC Angkor by Avani (5 stars), Siem Reap

Today, your guide and driver will accompany you for a full-day exploration of the most iconic monuments within the Angkor Archaeological Park.

★ Start Your Day with Angkor Wat Sunrise

Covering about 2 square kilometers (494 acres), Angkor Wat is the best-preserved temple of Angkorian ruins, and is proudly printed on Cambodia’s national flag. While most Khmer temples face east to symbolize rebirth, Angkor Wat is uniquely oriented toward the west, a direction that is associated with the afterlife in ancient times. It is this design that allows us to witness one of the world’s most stunning sunrise view over this sanctuary. As the first ray rises behind the five towers of the Angkor Wat Temple, a symphony of shadow and light plays its prelude. While the soft morning light outlines the temple’s contour, the entire sandstone structure appears to awaken under the gold veil. Afterward, we’ll escort you to your hotel for breakfast. Alternatively, we can pack a breakfast box for you to enjoy a picnic while overlooking the reflection of this site by the side of the lotus pond.

Then, we’ll continue to feel the grandeur of Angkor Thom ancient city. In the 9th century when the early spire of Prague Castle pierced the European sky, on the other side of the earth, this magnificent capital rose in the tropical forest. Although standing for over a millennium, the ruins that we’ll visit today are mainly the remnants of a late-12th-century reconstruction commissioned by King Jayavarman VII (1122-1218 AD). 

Crossing the ancient moat along the blue slab-paved bridge flanked by statues of Hindu deities, we’ll proceed to Bayon Temple at the heart of the city. Once entered, you’ll be greeted by 54 towers, featuring giant Buddha faces adorned on each facet. These calm and mysterious countenances were said to modeled after King Jayavarman VII, as a testimony of his god-king power. Wandering along the temple’s surrounding walls, you’ll find patches of bas-reliefs telling fierce battles and bustling scenes of ancient people’s daily life. 

Then, let’s pause at the Terrace of Elephants and the Terrace of the Laper King to admire their life-sized 3D carvings. Afterward, continue to Ta Keo, a temple constructed entirely of sandstones. With a dense and hard texture, the blocks were largely uncarved, which brought it a glimmer resembling crystals, hence its nickname of “Crystal Tower.”

Finally, we’ll conclude today’s exploration at Ta Prohm Temple, the iconic filming location for the movie “Tomb Raider.” Walking on the plank road with speckles cast by sunlight and looking at temple walls and chambers conquered by giant tree roots and mosses, you may foresee what will the world be like if human disappear. Moreover, don’t miss the chance to capture a cinematic picture recreating scenes in the movie. 

At the end of the day, your guide and driver will offer you a comfortable car ride back to your hotel. 

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch
Accommodation: Tara Angkor Hotel (4 stars), or FCC Angkor by Avani (5 stars), Siem Reap

Today, we’ll venture deeper into other Angkorian essences. Banteay Srei Temple in the suburban area will be our first stop. Unlike the gray-green sanctuaries we visited yesterday; this masterpiece is sculpted entirely from pink sandstones, glowing with a warm and rosy hue in the sunlight. Beyond bringing the temple a beautiful color, such a material is also easy to build with and carve like wood after waterlogged, but it can endure for over a millennium after being naturally dried. Wandering among the chambers, you can try to decode stories told by exquisite carvings on the façade, pediments, and lintels. 

Then, a 50-minute drive will escort you to Preah Khan Temple, the temporary royal residence of King Jayavarman VII when he reconstructed Angkor Thom. More than a temple, it functioned as a self-contained miniature city, housing nearly 100,000 people at its zenith. Deep inside the labyrinthine complex, a unique two-story building will come into your eyes. Its corridors are flanked by round columns while its double-tiered structure is diametrically different with traditional Khmer styles, which may remind you of the classical Greek or Roman colonnades, as if a fragment of Mediterranean antiquity had been misplaced in the jungles of a Southeast Asia peninsula. 

★ Explore Daily Life of Floating Village on Tonle Sap Lake 

After decoding the secrets left by the past, we’ll drive 1 hour to the Tonle Sap Lake and change to a dinghy, cruising across the water to get a glimpse into modern life in floating villages. As the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia, the lake provides a refuge to over 100,000 refugees who are not acknowledged by neither Cambodia nor Vietnam. Having carved out an enduring life on the water for generations, some of them build stilt houses while others live on boats to adapt to the lake’s pulse. Since daily life unfolds upon the water, household waste and wastewater mingle with the drinking water source. Despite floating hospital are built, waterborne illness continues to threat people’s health and many of them lose their lives due to contamination. For this reason, we do not recommend trying any food or drink here. 

Finally, let’s ascend the Phnom Krom Mountain to draw a full stop of today’s sightseeing, sinking in the golden sunset. Standing on the hilltop, you can gaze out over the endless emerald rice paddies and see the sun paints its reflections on the Tonle Sap Lake.

After descending the mountain, your guide and driver will escort back to your hotel. 

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch
Accommodation: Tara Angkor Hotel (4 stars), or FCC Angkor by Avani (5 stars), Siem Reap

After breakfast, your guide and driver will accompany you dive into the jungles to discover two of Angkor’s rawest sanctuaries. 

A 1-hour drive will bring you to Koh Ker Archaeological Site, a 10th-century complex housing over 30 temples. Following the trails, you’ll encounter the tree roots-covered Prasat Bram Temple and the site’s only red brick-constructed Prasat Krahom Temple. Further on, your view will suddenly open up and the Prasat Thnom Temple will come into your eyes. This magnificent 7-tiered structure, unlike other Angkor temples featuring corn-like spires, looks very similar to Mayan Pyramid, which is broad at the base and tapering toward the top. Climbing the wooden staircase, you’ll ascend to its summit, from which a green tapestry of surroundings will unfold beneath your feet. 

Then, drive 2.5 hours eastward to Beng Mealea Temple, which is said to the real-life inspiration of the movie “Castle in the Sky.” Being in this battlefield of stone and nature, you may have an illusion of transferring into a lost kingdom depicted in fairytales, bringing a feeling more like having a jungle expedition than a temple visit. Climbing to the vantage point of the ruins, you’ll gain a God’s-eye view of collapsed chambers, corridors, and galleries.  

After sightseeing, we’ll offer a 1-hour drive back to your hotel.

► Free-time Inspiration in Siem Reap
If you want to find something fun to do in the evening, just head to the Pub Street on your own. It takes only 5 minutes by tuk-tuk from our 4-star hotel and 15 minutes on foot from the 5-star hotel. You can enjoy a craft cocktail under the neon light or sample authentic Cambodian specialties, such as Amok and Khmer curry. 

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch

Accommodation: Tara Angkor Hotel (4 stars), or FCC Angkor by Avani (5 stars), Siem Reap

Bidding farewell to Siem Reap, we’ll hit the road to Battambang this morning. Upon arrival after a 3- to 3.5-hour drive, your guide and driver will directly escort you to the hotel we handpicked for you. 

After lunch, your Battambang exploration will start with a leisure walk to discover Cambodia’s best-preserved French colonial architectures. 800 century-old buildings line both banks of the Sangker River, showcasing the fusing of modern and ancient life through fancy cafes, restaurants, bars, and boutiques nestled in the old skeleton of the city.

To touch the real soul of Battambang, we’ll surely not let you miss the unique local transportation – bamboo train, which is an assembly of a simply bamboo platform, two pairs of steel wheels and a patrol-driven engine. In the past, this kind of on-land raft was used to transport livestock and cargos. Sitting on the convertible train, you’ll past lush rural landscapes in 40 minutes. Since there’s little shade along the tracks, we highly recommend applying high-SPF sunscreen.

After getting off the train, we’ll continue to the Phnom Sampeau Mountain in the south. A local folklore tells that once a wealthy prince sailed a giant treasure-loaded ship to marry his beloved princess. When he arrived at the Sangker River, the ship was attacked by a monstrous crocodile. To save the prince, the princess cut her hair and threw it into the river. The water was suddenly absorbed and the crocodile died. The ship ran aground, turning into Phnom Sampeau Mountain. Therefore, you may recognize the contour of the mountain resembling a ship from afar. Halfway up the mountain, we’ll pause at the Killing Caves, an execute site during the Khmer Rouge (1975-1979 AD), like Choeung Ek Killing Fields we visited in Phnom Penh. After mourning to the victims, we’ll make a pilgrimage to Wat Phnom Sampeau Temple on the hilltop. From its platform, you can look out over the endless farmland, sprawling like a green chessboard on the ground. 

Before sunset, we’ll descend the mountain and visit the Bat Cave. Between 17:30 and 18:00, millions of bats awaken and stream out of the cave, forming a black river across the sky. Since these nocturnal animals fly directly over your head and their droppings may make a mass and bring a foul smell, it is advisable to prepare a face mask and a hat.

At the end of the day, your guide and driver will escort you back to your hotel in the city center.

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch
Accommodation: Bambu Battambang Hotel (4 stars), or Maisons Wat Kor Hotel (4 stars), Battambang

After checking out this morning, your guide and driver will offer a 2-hour drive to Kampong Chhnang City, where we’ll slow down to the Kompong Luong Floating Village at the south end of Tonle Sap Lake. Less commercialized than the floating villages we visited near Siem Reap, it shows the most authentic fabric of local life. Along the river bank, you can see that boats are tethered together, forming colorful settlements. Their vessels vary drastically: some are simply covered with tarpaulins, while others are equipped with solar panels and satellite dishes. Whether rich or poor, all locals complete all of their life events – birth, marriage, raising children, and death – in these swaying houses floating on the water. What you’ll experience here is not a performance stage for tourists, but a documentary film recording their daily routines: cooking, washing, fixing the boats, and taking care of children. 

Then, we’ll drive 3 hours back to Phnom Penh. Upon arrival, your guide and driver will assist you with hotel check-in. After settling in, the rest of the day is free for you. 

► Phnom Penh Nightlife Inspiration: (at your own expense)
If you wish to experience the local evening ambiance or find some souvenirs, you can head to the vibrant Phnom Penh Night Market, which is less than a 10-minute tuk-tuk ride from your hotel. Located along the riverside, it lines with waterfront cafes, craft cocktail lounges, stalls selling Khmer-style sandstone carvings, traditional clothes, and special street foods. After exploration, please return to your hotel independently.

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch
Accommodation: Chaiya Palace Hotel (4 stars) or Hyatt Regency (5 stars), Phnom Penh

After breakfast, your guide and driver will offer you a 1.5-hour car ride to Chisor Mountain Temple, which is even 200 years older than Angkor Wat. Located on the hilltop, this laterite and red brick building offers a vantage point of the surroundings. Standing in front of its dilapidated doorway, a tapestry-like Cambodian countryside panorama will come into your view: vast farmlands in shades of green and gold, and scattered villages and the holy lake linked by the “scared path” in the distance. It is said that before grand ceremonies, the king and priests would purify themselves by bathing in the holy lake before ascending the stone steps along the axis to this “heavenly realm.” 

Descending the mountain, after another 1-hour drive, we’ll reach the Angkor Borei Town in Takeo Province, where we’ll make a pilgrimage to Prasat Phnom Da Temple. This 6th-century sanctuary is a time capsule left by the Funan Kingdom (1st-7th century AD), a dynasty regarded as the cradle of Khmer civilization. Walking around the temple, you’ll find that the massive square brick tower is carved with a real gate on the east side and three false gates on the other sides. In the past, people believed that this kind of design could let the surrounding areas be protected by the power of the deity. Also, take a look at the low-key Asram Moha Eisei Temple nearby.

Next, we’ll continue to drive 2 hours to the coastal city, Kep. Upon arrival, we’ll help you check into the hotel we selected for you.

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch
Accommodation: Veranda Kep Resort (4 stars) or Samanea Beach Resort (4 stars), Kep

Today is free for you to slow down in Kep and soak in the tranquil charm of this seaside city. 

► Suggestions for Your Free Time:
1. Crab Market: It is a 10-minute walk from Veranda Kep Resort and a 3-minute tuk-tuk ride (30-minute walk) from Samanea Beach Resort. As a paradise for sea food lovers, the market offers the freshest blue crabs in the morning. You can see local women wade into the ocean to pull up crab baskets. To treat your watering mouth, just select your fresh catch and ask the vendors to cook with an extra small fee. 

2. Kep Beach: At the far end of the market lies Kep Beach, where you can take photos with a giant blue crab sculpture in the water. Moreover, with wide, crescent-shaped promenade, and white sands, it is also a perfect spot for a leisurely sunset stroll. 

3. Kep National Park: If you want to totally unwind after days of travel, just head into the Kep National Park (USD 1 for entrance fee). It takes only 3 minutes walking from the Veranda Kep Resort and 5 minutes by tuk-tuk from Samanea Beach Resort. The shaded trail will lead you to the cafe on the hillside where you can sprawl on the hammock and take in the panoramic views of the city.

Meals: Breakfast
Accommodation: Veranda Kep Resort (4 stars) or Samanea Beach Resort (4 stars), Kep

After breakfast, your guide and driver will accompany you on a road trip to Kampot. After a 30-minute drive, we’ll stop at a local pepper farm, where you’ll gain the firsthand experience to touch and taste the pepper corn directly from the vines during the 40-minute exploration. Titled as the “King of Peppers,” Kampot pepper boasts a multilayered flavor. Crack the pepper husk with your teeth and an initial burst of floral and citrus will conquer your palates followed by a faint hint of minty coolness, finally leaving a subtle sweet on your tongue. At a farm-to-table lunch at noon, you can taste signature dishes cooked with Kampot pepper, such as Iced Americano and pepper ice cream. 

Following the lunch, we’ll continue our drive for 2.5 hours to Sihanoukville, the maritime transit hub to Koh Rong Island perched in the Gulf of Thailand. Here, we strongly recommend that you stay close with your guide and secure your personal belongings, as Sihanoukville is not as safe as other cities. Follow your guide to transfer to a high-speed ferry for a 45-minute cruise. Upon arrival at Koh Rong Island, we’ll escort you to our handpicked hotel. After settling in, the rest for the day is free for you. However, out of concern of your safety, it is advisable not to hang out alone at night. 

Meals: Breakfast, Lunch
Accommodation: The Secret Garden Koh Rong (4 stars)

Just enjoy your free day to embrace the pristine waters of Koh Rong Island! If you have no idea about what to do, the following are some recommendations.

► Island Exploration via Scooter
For visitors with riding experience, renting a scooter offers a thrilling and romantic way to gain a cinematic “island road movie” experience. It costs about USD 15 for a full day and USD 10 for half a day. As the dense tropical jungles move backwards, what fill your ear are calls of birds and cicadas. Along the route, you’ll encounter Cambodian children playing under the palm trees. Riding to a higher point, you’ll look out over a glass-like sea shifting from transparent to mint green and deep Tiffany blue. 
● Tip: The northmost route is not recommended since it remains largely undeveloped and covered with loose gravel and mud, which demands exceptional driving skills. 

► Marine Adventure through Boat Charter
To fully feel the charm of the Gulf of Thailand, you can join a shared boat excursion (USD 25 per person) or secure a private boat charter (USD 90 per day) which is quite valuable for families or groups of three or more. You can go fishing, snorkeling, or enjoy an onboard barbecue. After dark, the boat will glide into secluded bays where you can see magical “Blue Tears” formed by luminous plankton shimmering beneath the weaves. 

► Inshore Activities:
For those with kayaking experience, renting a sea kayak (USD 15-20 for half a day) is also a wonderful alternative. Please pay attention to tidal changes, wind conditions, and surrounding coral reefs. 

Meals: Breakfast
Accommodation: The Secret Garden Koh Rong (4 stars)

In the morning, make the most of your remaining time to enjoy a serene stroll along the beach to print the beauty of the sea in your mind. If you would like to extend your stay on Koh Rong Island or add a side trip to Koh Rong Sanloem Island, please just let us know and we’ll be very delighted to tailor the itinerary for you.

In the afternoon, we’ll take a 45-minute high-speed ferry back to Sihanoukville. Upon arrival, your guide and driver will seamlessly escort you to Phnom Penh in 3 hours by private car.

► Free-time Exploration in Phnom Penh (at your own expense):
Upon checking into your hotel in Phnom Penh, spend your last night in Cambodia for a final exploration of the Russian Market, where you can find traditional Cambodian handicrafts, silk textiles, and antique souvenirs. As the market can be quite bustling and crowded, please keep your valuables secure at all times. 

Meals: Breakfast
Accommodation: Chaiya Palace Hotel (4 stars) or Hyatt Regency (5 stars), Phnom Penh

After checking out from the hotel, your guide and driver will escort you to Phnom Penh Techo International Airport (KTI) to catch your flight connecting to your next destination. To ensure enough time for check-in and security check, we recommend arriving at the airport 3 hours before.

Meals: Breakfast